A Guide to Zurich

Zurich rewards the slow traveller — a small old town wrapped around a clear lake, framed on a good day by the white line of the Alps in the distance.

01 Arriving by the lake

Start at Bürkliplatz where the river Limmat slips into the lake. From here the promenade unfolds for kilometres — paddleboats, perfectly tended gardens, and a backdrop of mountains that feels almost painted on a clear morning.

02 Old town and Niederdorf

Cross the river into Niederdorf for cobblestone lanes, independent bookshops and small ateliers. Climb to Lindenhof for the city’s quietest viewpoint — a small plateau above the rooftops where locals play chess in the afternoon.

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Zurich is a city that whispers — you have to slow down to hear it.

03 Coffee, chocolate and the long lunch

Café Sprüngli for hot chocolate, Confiserie Honold for pralines, and any small Beizli in the old town for a proper Zürcher Geschnetzeltes — veal in cream sauce with rösti, the city on a plate.